No Grotta for me in Capri, Italy

One of the big attractions we missed out during our first visit to Italy was to see the Blue Grotta in Capri. Capri is a pretty but small mountainous island just a short ferry ride away from Sorrento. But for this reason, Capri is a magnet for day trippers who swamp the tiny streets and overwhelm local infrastructure. There are no trains or major roads, just half-pint size buses with no more than 7 seats and a old cable car to shuttle crowds from the port to Capri town. Thankfully we stayed two nights at a AirBnb which gave us more flexibility to have multiple attempts to see the temperamental Blue Grotta, and appreciate the side of Capri most day trippers miss out on.

The Blue Grotta is basically a tiny cave that can only be reached by ferry boat which houses a magically illuminated show of blue thanks to natural light beaming through the water at the right angle. Unfortunately on both days we wanted to see the cave, the seas were just too rough to safely allow boats to enter the cave as the height clearance is so low, you have to lie down to crawl under!

Grotta aside, we did enjoy a tough but short hike along the the coast from Faro to the Grotta. My thighs were on fire climbing some of those stairs. But I particularly liked the chairlift up 500m to the top of Monte Salaro for some epic views of the island. I wished the world had more chairlifts to add more novelty to journeys. Karen found her dessert dream that is the local ‘Caprese’ Cake flavoured in local lemons where Buonocore Gelateria does a very good rendition.

Away from the popular hubs of Capri town and the port lie some real restaurant gems. Following advice from our host, we loved the homely meals from Lo Sfizio where one can indulge on all the favourites from pizza, pasta and rotisserie chicken at low prices. Its nice to see locals picking up a freshly roasted chook or pizza to take home. But the best meal I had on Capri was from Da Tonino: a Michelin rated restaurant that looks like a adult-tree house in the middle of island suburbia. Serious food here, and the wine sommelier is even more passionate to help you find that perfect drop. The wine list alone is thicker than some dictionaries!

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